Table Saw Buying Guide: How to Choose (UK 2026)

By the Table Yard editorial team · Updated 2026 · How we test & score

A table saw is a serious tool, and a few choices determine how well it suits your work and how safely you can use it: the type, power, blade and rip capacity, the fence, and the safety features. This guide walks through each.

Type and power

First, the type. Portable and site saws are compact and movable, ideal for DIY and trade work on site; benchtop saws sit on a workbench; larger contractor and cabinet saws are heavier workshop machines with more capacity and stability; and mini/hobby saws (like Proxxon's) suit modelling and craft. Then power: corded saws give constant, fade-free power for sustained ripping near a socket, while cordless saws free you from the cable for site work, with batteries to manage. Match the type and power to the size of your work and where you'll use the saw.

Blade, cut depth and rip capacity

The blade diameter - commonly 210mm or 250-255mm on full-size saws, smaller on hobby models - sets the maximum cut depth, so bigger blades handle thicker stock. Just as important is rip capacity: the maximum width you can cut between the blade and the fence, which determines how wide a panel or board you can rip. Check the rip capacity against your widest typical cuts. And use the correct blade for the material - a good, sharp blade of the right type makes a big difference to cut quality and safety.

The fence and table

The fence is what makes a table saw accurate - it must be straight, square to the blade, and lock down parallel every time. A poor fence undermines even a powerful saw, so look for one that adjusts easily and holds true. The table surface should be flat and, ideally, extend to support larger workpieces (some saws add side or rear extensions). A stable, flat table and a reliable fence are the difference between clean, repeatable cuts and frustrating ones.

Safety - the priority

Table saws are among the most dangerous power tools, so safety features are essential, not optional. Look for a riving knife (which stops the cut closing and pinching the blade, preventing kickback), a blade guard, and a push stick for narrow cuts. In use: keep the guard and riving knife fitted, never reach over a running blade, use the fence or a mitre gauge (not both freehand), keep hands well clear, control the workpiece, and never remove safety devices to 'make a cut easier'. Read the manual, take your time, and a table saw is a safe, hugely productive tool.

Our top picks

Frequently asked questions

What should I look for when buying a table saw?

The type (portable/site, benchtop or mini) for your work and space, the power (cordless or corded), the blade size and rip capacity for your cuts, and above all a good square fence and proper safety features (riving knife, guard, push stick). Never compromise on the safety kit - it's the most important part.

What rip capacity do I need on a table saw?

Rip capacity is the widest cut between blade and fence, so match it to your widest typical cuts - ripping full sheets needs a large capacity (or a track saw), while cutting narrower boards needs less. Many portable saws offer enough for general DIY; check the figure against the panels and boards you actually cut.

Bottom line

Our top pick is the DeWalt Table Saw (our score 9.6/10) - A capable table saw (jobsite / site saw, 4-inch blade) for straight, repeatable cutting..

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